Lingerie in London: A Day of Dessous

by Estelle Puleston

Pictured above left-to-right: EVA knickers, Something Wicked stockings, Paloma Casile bra

Last month I took a day trip to London to attend the first ever Dessous London trade show, and a separate launch event for new-to-the-UK lingerie and swimwear brand EVA, owned by the 100-year old German brand Naturana. It’s the kind of thing I hope to do more of moving forwards and share with you on the blog, now that I work for myself and can actually do things of my choosing on a weekday. So much of what I do at Esty Lingerie is online, but it is nice to go meet the designers and other people behind the brands once in a while, and actually see and touch the lingerie.

I’d thought about maybe doing a report on upcoming trends, but as Dessous London is a much smaller event than the big, longstanding lingerie trade shows, it wasn’t really possible to pick out underlying themes running across multiple brands. Instead, I decided to simply share with you all of my favourite pieces from the diverse array of aesthetics that were on show. The majority of what’s below is launching at the start of next year, but some items are available earlier or already.

Not included here are the photos I took at the Dita Von Teese stand as those designs are a secret for now, but they did include some of the sets that were the most ‘me’ – it was really interesting seeing how different pieces were inspired by specific details on garments in Dita’s personal collection of vintage lingerie, so I’ll be sharing those pics over on Instagram just as soon as I can!

The Bras

Bluebella Luisa bra – launching January 2018

I thought this Bluebella bra was so unique, with its rigidly boned cups that hold that dramatic pointed shape.

EVA Nude Beauty bralette – launching Spring/Summer 2018

I so wish I’d photographed the accompanying bodysuit to this bra, because the two of them were some of my very favourite lingerie I saw on the day. Sleek, sheer and simple, it reminds me of the 1960s No Bra. The V between the cups is boned to hold its shape, and I adore this colour combination (though it will also come in dark grey).

Paloma Casile Twiggy bra – launching January 2018

 This bold and graphic lace looks really striking against the skin – lace doesn’t always have to look dainty and delicate!

Something Wicked Ava bra – available now

Something Wicked Annabel bra – available now

Leather specialist Something Wicked is under new management and has recently released its first bridal collection (not that you need an upcoming wedding as an excuse to buy these). I particularly liked these two bras with their unusually-placed cut-outs, which are remakes of previous Something Wicked designs but in this new ivory colourway.

A’zaira Intimates Morghan bra – launching September 2017

I was super excited to meet A’zaira Intimates and see this beautiful ‘scribble rose’ embroidery that I’ve been lusting after on Instagram up close, and it was every bit as beautiful in real life! The design is exclusive to this brand, and comes in various colours and bra sizes 28DD to 36H.

Undress Code Wonder Woman bralette – launching Spring/Summer 2018

I feel like this bralette will appeal to some of you! Polish, feminist brand Undress Code launched last year and their SS18 collection will be sprinkled with empowering phrases such as this ‘Wonder Woman’ embroidery.

The Knickers

Undress Code Be Natural knickers – available now

What I loved most about Undress Code’s collections however were the materials – they use only the finest Italian and French fabrics, and as I was saying, it’s nice to see the lingerie in the real world sometimes because you really do get a different perspective on the product. These knickers may look fairly standard, but they were so soft – probably the softest pair of knickers I’ve ever felt!

Paloma Casile Brigitte knickers – launching January 2018

How beautiful is this lace?! Definitely one of the more striking designs I saw at Dessous London.

The Basques and Bodysuits

EVA Reef Beauty bodysuit – launching Spring/Summer 2018

Although I didn’t think to photograph that pink and red EVA bodysuit, it followed the same shape as this one – it was the contrast between the organic ‘cracks’ and the graphic vertical stripes of the print that caught my eye here.

Hot As Hell Spinster reversible bodysuit – available now

This stretchy bodysuit was reversible (as in, lacing at either the front or back, not turning it inside out), and once on the body that high legline becomes a super high legline – very 1980s!

Bluebella Xanthe basque – launching January 2018

If Dessous London is anything to go, strapping is no longer the defining trend in lingerie. However, it’s definitely still there in the background, mostly in the form of bras with horizontal straps above the cups, but also still the odd super-strappy piece such as this cage-style basque from Bluebella.

The Loungewear

Kriss Soonik Susan Heart gown – launching November 2017

How sweet and lovely is this robe?! It features flocked velvet hearts and all of the little trims you see are velvet too.

EVA Bohemian Chic kimono – launching Spring/Summer 2018

This pretty, watercolour floral print featured in both EVA’s lingerie collection and their swimwear one, and this kimono night-robe could probably work for either.

The Swimwear

Peach Trail Isaora bikini top – launching Spring/Summer 2018

Peach Trail Brenna swimsuit – launching Spring/Summer 2018

Nope, I haven’t miscategorised these – they’re swimwear! The first thing I asked when I approached the Peach Trail stand was “is that a bodysuit or a swimwear?” and it turns out that’s the point – it’s the brand’s debut swimwear collection, inspired by lingerie trends such as embroidery appliquéed onto illusion tulle.

EVA Aquitaine swimsuit – launching Spring/Summer 2018

Although relatively simple, EVA pulls on Naturana’s century of expertise to carefully place the print in this subtly-nautical swimwear, to create the illusion of more curves.

Hot As Hell HAHP 2 IT swimsuit – launching Spring/Summer 2018

Hot As Hell HAHP 2 IT swimsuit – launching Spring/Summer 2018

Last but not least, these swimsuits by LA-based brand Hot As Hell really stood out, both because of the prints and because of the wide strapping details with chunky hardware.

Visit the brands featured in this post:

A’zaira Intimates

Bluebella [affiliate link]


Hot As Hell

Kriss Soonik

Paloma Casile

Peach Trail

Something Wicked

Undress Code

So, are you excited for Spring/Summer 2018? Which of these designs would you most like to wear?

The product recommendations directly above are affiliate links

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